Skip to content 
Madeira
Land and Sea
Floating in the Heart of the Atlantic, the Tiny Islands of Madeira and Porto Santo Hold the Soul of the Sea
By Jennifer Malloy
Our headlights like two small suns are quickly swallowed by the thick onyx cloak that currently blankets Madeira Island. Our destination is Pico do Areeiro. My husband, six-month-old son and I hurry to catch the sunrise, which is suddenly cresting an ocean of clouds that have settled over the coastline. The ethereal inversion of sea and sky overflows our travel cup with awe.
The clouds then part and we glimpse shrouded ridges that arc like the spine of a dinosaur, tumbling towards a surging sea. The “Pearl of the Atlantic” is beginning to reveal itself to us: a map to discover, a trail to explore, a treasure to be found after a lifetime of feeling lost.
A Hiker’s Paradise
Lace up your hiking boots because Pico do Areeiro also serves as the trailhead for Madeira’s most famous of hikes. Vereda do Pico Ruivo via Pico Areeiro (PR 1.2) is the archipelago’s highest summit (and the third highest point in Portugal), and this thrilling trail exposes intrepid hikers to craggy cliffsides, dark, dank tunnels that cut through rugged peaks and rickety ladders hammered into otherwise impassable rock faces. Most people will hike this as an out and back, but be sure to book a local tour or order a pickup on the other side.
If the coast is calling to you, the Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço (PR 8) is a moderate option where you can enjoy an all-you-can-see buffet of crumbling, volcanic cliffs, barren, basalt landscapes and soaring protected seabirds like shearwaters and Bulwer’s petrels. The 20-million-year-old Laurisilva Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that protects an ancient ecosystem, is the perfect place for strolls on the Levada trails. Vereda do Fanal (PR 13) is a good choice on a misty or rainy day as the rolling fog adds an air of intrigue to the twisting trees and their gnarled, mossy roots.
Cruise the Coastline
Trade in your hiking legs for sea legs on a whale- and dolphin-watching tour for stunning marine life encounters. Atlantic spotted dolphin, short-finned pilot whales and loggerhead sea turtles are some of the possible sightings during this popular year-round activity. Mild water temperatures mean that the underwater delights are also not to be missed, so strap on your snorkel or oxygen tank to explore the nature reserve of Garajau, or the artificial reefs formed from sunken ships. Enjoy the varied marine life, including rays, seahorses and barracudas, before coming up for air.
Relish views of leafy mountains and soaring waterfalls while relaxing on the black sand beach of Seixal or when swimming in the nearby volcanically formed pools of Poças das Lesmas (for a more developed experience, opt to take a dip in the Natural Pools of Porto Moniz). Experienced surfers should head for Achadas da Cruz to combine the thrill of Europe’s steepest gondola with a backdrop that inspires the island’s “Hawaii of Europe” moniker; however, if you’re a beginner wave chaser, check out Madeira Surf Center for lessons. You’ll then be spoiled for choice when it comes to finding the perfect beach for hunting down that flawless barrel.
Porto Santo’s Job is More Than Just Beach
While you should eventually find the white sand of Porto Santo’s pristine beaches between your toes, be sure to get a taste of the island’s incredible activities that are still flavoured with an ample dose of sea salt. Quench your thirst for the coastline by circumnavigating sharp sea cliffs and isolated beaches by kayak, or flip a traditional snorkelling experience on its head by taking a twilight plunge into the marine life of Porto Santos. Hike along Vereda do Pico Branco e Terra Chã (PS PR 1), a narrow rock trail that is emblematic of the island’s past—it was once a thoroughfare for mules. Suck in that hearty sea air and savour the heady scent of cypress trees while admiring the coastal views before the trail splits, taking hikers to two unique but equally beautiful viewpoints. Pico de Ana Ferreira, a spine of jagged rocks that slices its way through the centre of the island, is another worthy hiking destination, and don’t resist the siren song of the iconic “organ pipes” formation located near the trailhead.
Tips & tricks
To explore the archipelago’s secrets, and to get the most out of your visit, guided tours are recommended: visitmadeira.com/en/what-to-do/nature-seekers/activities/madeira-tours
On Porto Santo, Europe’s Leading Beach Destination 2024, there are numerous tour companies offering services to safely explore the island on land and sea: visitmadeira.com/en/where-to-go/porto-santo/discovering-porto-santo
