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South America
The Peruvian Amazon A Serene Alternative to Machu Picchu
Far from Machu Picchu’s crowds, the often-overlooked Amazon
offers a serene, boat-accessible escape where solitude and
deep connections await.
WORDS + PHOTOS BY JENN SMITH NELSON
Minutes after settling into macaw-patterned seats, I’m hit with a surreal, pinch-me moment, nearly as intense as the humidity.
I have made it to the Amazon.
It’s hot but overcast with the sky sharply contrasting the jungle-lined forest of green giants stretching for sunlight. At the helm veteran Ese Eja guide and elder, Rodolfo Pesha, shares plantain chips, Brazil nuts, and Amazonian wildlife facts.
Drifting down river, we head toward Posada Amazonas, a remote ecolodge accessible only by boat and located within a 9,500-hectare communal reserve belonging to the Ese Eja Native Community of Infierno. Co-managed with Rainforest Expeditions since 1996, the lodge offers immersive, community-based experiences guided by the Ese Eja people. Soon, I step off the boat, scaling a rain-soaked riverbank into the jungle.
Reaching the Amazon from the Canadian prairies has been an adventure—flights to Lima and Puerto Maldonado, a 1.5-hour bus ride, and a two-hour canoe trip along the Tambopata River—to finally reach the ancestral land of the Ese Eja, deep in the rainforest. More than 1,500 km from the well-trodden paths of iconic Machu Picchu, Peru’s most visited destination, the Peruvian Amazon is in the southeastern Madre de Dios region. It’s here amidst untouched wilderness that the notion of a tranquil and authentic cultural escape awaits.
Posada Amazonas Where Luxury Meets Sustainability
As breezes carry primal sounds and scents that drift through the open-air lodge, constructed entirely from local palms and woods, I’m effortlessly connected to the rainforest. Room details feel intentional, too: a mosquito-netted bed promises restful sleep, while a hammock and private balcony overlook the vast jungle.
At night, conservation meets adventure through cultural exchange lectures. Curated by Rainforest Expeditions, guests can participate in citizen science projects like jaguar identification and discovering new species.
Wildlife Encounters Galore
Home to 10 per cent of the planet’s known species, the Amazon amazes at every turn. From a 36-metre observation tower, I watch toucans flit and squirrel monkeys swing through the sunset-glowing canopy.
A catamaran ride across Tres Chimbadas Oxbow Lake reveals a family of giant river otters, curious capuchins and a lurking black caiman. I’m in my glory as hoatzins, kingfishers, herons, egrets and macaws abound non-stop. Guide Fernando Coa, an Ese Eja wildlife guide since 2006, points out the peculiar horned screamer, and an emerald boa camouflaged appearing like a banana bunch.
Ese Eja Cultural Learnings
Seeing the jungle through an elder’s eyes offers an intimate glimpse into Ese Eja traditions. A medicinal walk with Pesha reveals the jungle as a living pharmacy. We pause to learn about una de gato (cat’s claw), used for ulcers, and chuchuhuasi, a remedy for arthritis. Highly sensory, we taste and touch these wild greens that leave my tongue numb and fingers dyed purple.
Becoming a Citizen Scientist
A visit to sister lodge Refugio Amazonas introduces me to the Discovering New Species Program. Donning wellies and a headlamp, biologist Aracely Yarasca navigates us into the dark forest to capture and identify new tiger moth species. Of all life forms on Earth, insects remain the least understood.
Arriving at an illuminated white sheet covered in insects, it takes a minute to acclimate but soon I’m appreciating the intricate designs of moth wings. Gently, I pluck around 10 tiger moths marking my first official contribution to science. Once collected, the moths are shipped for genetic sequencing and cataloguing. This initiative has already discovered over 30 species, with participants earning the naming rights for their finds.
As the boat returns to Puerto Maldonado, I carry more than just memories—I leave with a renewed respect for the Ese Eja and those dedicated to protecting the Amazon, and a commitment to travelling with intention.
Need to Know?
Visiting the Peruvian Amazon and the Ese Eja Community
Location: Tambopata, Madre de Dios, Peru.
Size: Covers 60%+ of Peru’s territory.
Tip: Schedule early flights into Puerto Maldonado (via Lima or Cusco).
Transfers: Rainforest Expeditions provides guided boat transfers along the Tambopata River. The Ese Eja Native Community of Infierno has around 1,000 people.
Guides: All guides are English-speaking Ese Eja members.
