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Great Escapes
New Faces of Cabot Trail
Rugged coastline meets upscale new experiences along this popular Nova Scotia route
By LOLA AUGUSTINE BROWN
Often named one of the world’s most beautiful islands, Cape Breton is naturally awesome.
Driving the 298-kilometre loop of the Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia takes you through tiny fishing communities, past white sand beaches, including highland hikes that have their own big reveal of rushing waterfalls and stunning vistas—and perhaps even a moose sighting. Along the way, don’t be surprised by seaside eateries serving top-tier lobster rolls and fried clams.
Until recently, luxe eateries and accommodations were scarce, but much has changed. Here’s where to stop for an upscale Cape Breton escape.
A Luxurious Beginning
Start your Cabot Trail adventure in Margaree Harbour by booking one of the architect-designed clifftop cottages at Ridge on the Chimney. Each sustainably built retreat offers romantic sunset views over pretty Chimney Corner Beach, best enjoyed from your private, wood-fired hot tub.
Must Try Woodroad, a neighbouring 25-seat restaurant, offers an intimate seven-course tasting menu of locally sourced and foraged ingredients.
Take a Beach Day
Inverness is home to Cabot Cape Breton. As one of the world’s best golf courses, it is set along the 1.5-kilometre stretch of Inverness Beach—perfect for beachcombing. Enjoy a long lunch on the patio overlooking the greens and beach beyond, or dine inside the stylish dining room at The Annex. Order the best chowder, fat local oysters, mouthwatering refined dishes and fabulous cocktails.
Must Try Take a flutter with locals at Inverness Raceway, where regular harness racing happens from June through October.
Dip into Acadian Culture
You’ll see Acadian flags everywhere in the town of Chéticamp. At Les Trois Pignons visitors’ centre find a comprehensive introduction to local Acadian culture (and plenty of hooked rugs that are novelty items sold all over the island). This tiny town is home to a crop of indie eateries. Head to L’abri café, restaurant et bar, for comfort food or get a mug of java and a cinnamon bun at the charming Marguerite Boutique et Provisions.
Must Try Swimming in the sparkling waters of Gypsum Mine Quarry, accessed by an easy 2.6-kilometre there-and-back hike.
Rugged Coastal Adventuring
Drive through Cape Breton Highlands National Park, and make a stop to hike the famed Skyline Trail (8.2-kilometre loop, not too challenging and worth it for the legendary views), then continue to Ingonish, your next stop. Book an eclectic-cool room above Salty Rose’s & the Periwinkle Café and feast on their decadent lobster and crab rolls. Be sure to browse their gallery full of local art and crafts. Ingonish Beach is pretty, with smooth grey and pink stones leading to white sands, and there are many down-home restaurants serving fried clams and scallops, as well as artisan stores selling pottery, leatherwork and chocolate.
Must Try Head out on a whale-watching trip with Keltic Express Zodiac Adventures for a chance of spotting humpback, minke and fin whales.
