Croatia
Dalmatia for Renewal
Sean Mallen Explores Wellness-Forward Luxury, Ancient Footpaths Steeped in History, and Seaside Flavours that Celebrate a Slower, Healthier Way Of Island Living in this Croatian Retreat
By Sean Mallen
When our friend, artist Marija Barac-Jandric first stepped ashore on Hvar in 2022, she immediately sensed she was home. “There’s something magical—a fragrance in the air like nowhere else in the world,” she told us during our recent stay.
After over 30 years in Canada, she and her husband Miljenko decided to leave and return to their birthplace: Croatia. They were seduced by Hvar and chose to settle in Stari Grad, one of the oldest towns in Europe, founded more than 2,000 years ago. Its surrounding plain reveals ancient Greek agriculture that is coveted as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Marija has fond memories of coming to Hvar as a teenager, working in the tourism industry that thrived even through the communist era of the former Yugoslavia.
Today, visitors are drawn to the crystal-line waters, dozens of lovely beaches in coves surrounding the island with its breathtaking mountainous scenery. Not to mention excellent food and terrific, locally-produced wine and olive oil.
Seductive Charms
It was also in 2022 when we visited Marija and Miljenko and fell under Hvar’s spell, making the leap to buy an ancient house, actually just four stone walls with no roof, in the mountainside village of Pitve, population 82 (when we are not there).
On a return visit to check on the restoration work at our property, we had the pleasure of staying at the Maslina Resort, a place that caters to 21st century visitors, while respecting the land and heritage.
When the 5-star property was built on a hillside overlooking Maslinca Bay, the existing olive trees were carefully excavated and preserved so that they could be replanted around the new buildings. (Maslina means olive in Croatian, a nod to the olive groves that dot the island).
From our room’s balcony we looked out over the bay, and though the resort was fully booked, the atmosphere always felt calm and uncrowded. The design leans into nature with local stone, wood and earth tones.
Wellness is central. Maslina’s Pharomatiq Spa is tucked into pine groves and olive trees, offering yoga, sound-healing, and herbal treatments. We even joined a sound-therapy session so restful that the relaxing tones were punctuated at one point by my snoring (ended by a gentle nudge from my bemused wife).
Island Explorations
We followed Miljenko’s recommendation to seek out an exquisite, tiny beach called Zogon found at the end of a serpentine, unpaved road on the island’s south side. It has spectacular sea views.
We also spent time in Hvar Town, the island’s largest bustling hub. Million-dollar yachts filled the harbour, as shops and restaurants lined narrow streets rising up from St. Stephen’s Square. On the rooftop of Grande Luna, I had a delicious sea bass, while my wife enjoyed pašticada, a traditional Dalmatian dish of beef fillets slow-cooked in a rich sauce until the meat falls apart on the fork.
By comparison, Stari Grad felt more peaceful. The picturesque harbour, anci-ent stone paths, and pedestrian-only lanes gave it a timeless quality. They also offer inspiration for Marija’s paintings as she seeks to capture the sights and spirit of Hvar. “When I walk the streets, I can’t help but feel how people have walked there over thousands of years,” she shared about her accidental paradise.
Worth A Visit
In the tiny mountain village of Vrisnik we had a fascinating visit to Terra Arhaica, (“archaic land” in Latin). Owner Jakša Damjanić, and his wife Lana restored her great grand-mother’s house, and stocked it with antique farm implements which they use to show visitors how islanders scraped out a living before electricity or powered machinery.
We also savoured a tasting at one of the island’s many excellent wineries: Vina Carić in the picturesque seaside town of Vrboska.
Travel Planner
Ferries to Hvar run from Split, operated by Jadrolinija Jadrolinija.hr/en. On Hvar, you can rent cars or scooters from Sun City Suncity.hr. Most beaches are pebbled. Water shoes are recommended. For more travel information about Hvar, see visithvar.hr
Marija Barac-Jandric’s art can be seen at molo-gallery.com
