MExico
Meditating with the maestro in Mexico’s Michoacán
How Making Art Can be a Reminder of Life’s Simple Pleasures
By Mark Stachiew
As I brushed the final strokes of paint onto the elegantly dressed clay skeleton in my hands, it made me realize just how meditative and relaxing making your own art can be.
This realization came to me in Capula, a small town in Mexico’s Michoacán state, just a short drive from the capital city of Morelia. Capula is known as the City of Catrinas, named for the multitude of artisanal workshops producing colourful clay sculptures of the eponymous female skeleton—an instantly recognizable symbol of Mexico’s Day of the Dead celebrations.
I was trying my hand at painting a Catrina in one of these workshops, but this was no ordinary space. It belonged to the celebrated artist Juan Torres Calderón, who introduced the Catrina figure to Capula’s artisans more than forty years ago, almost single-handedly launching the local industry that defines the town today.
“I had already started using the Catrina character when I lived in Morelia,” explained Torres. “When I settled in Capula, I launched a social project during my first five years to help local people create Catrinas. I was thrilled because the people here already possessed incredible mastery of their craft.”
To be clear, Torres didn’t invent the Catrina. She began life as a satirical cartoon created around 1913 by Mexican artist José Guadalupe Posada. The character exploded into the national consciousness during the 1940s after Diego Rivera placed her front and centre in his famous mural, A Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Park (1947). Since then, La Catrina has grown into an enduring emblem of Mexican cultural identity, embraced and reinterpreted by countless artists like Torres.
Visitors drop into Torres’s workshop for an afternoon painting and sculpture lesson from the maestro himself, while others come for extended stays. They come to disconnect from the electronic world for a few days to create things with their own hands. For me, spending time in his workshop brought back memories of the childhood joy of making art, unconcerned if it was good or bad.
For those seeking a longer retreat, the property is equipped with three rental apartments. The apartments are part of a sprawling compound that showcases Torres’s immense taste and talent. The lush garden is dotted with his outdoor sculptures, making it a pleasant place to recharge while serving as living proof of an artistic life fully lived.
Now in his eighties, Torres remains an unstoppable creative force. He walked us through an onsite gallery featuring his paintings and sculptures, patiently explaining the stories behind each piece. Looking closely at the collection, I noticed that every single work had been created within the past year alone—an astounding testament to his artistic output.
A short walk across the grounds brings you to a small chapel designed by Torres, who studied architecture, and views structural design as another form of visual expression. Inside, hang several pieces of Catholic devotional art, one of his favourite themes.
When I asked how he determines whether an idea should take form as a painting, a sculpture, or a building, he shrugged. “For me, it’s exactly the same,” he said. “Every expression in this gallery flows from the skills I’ve developed. It emerges exactly as I imagine it.”
Later, Torres led us through his private residence and workshop. His home is adorned with gallery-calibre original pieces that belong in a museum. In his studio rested half-finished canvases alongside a life-sized wooden crucifix he was carving for a local church—more reminders of his prodigious work ethic driven by his lifelong passion.
Walking through Capula’s streets, past dozens of open workshops lined with clay Catrinas, the magnitude of Torres’s impact is undeniable. While the town is a delight year-round, one of the best times to visit is during the Day of the Dead at the start of November. Capula hosts the Feria de la Catrina, a joyous celebration honouring life and art.
The Catrina I painted that day now sits on my desk. She serves as a poignant memento mori, but even more, a reminder that one of the joys of life is expressing yourself through art simply for the pleasure of it.
Travel Planner
For more information about visiting the city of Capula and the state of Michoacán, go to visitmichoacan.com.mx/en
