FRANCE
A Taste of Dijon
From ducal palaces and medieval lanes to legendary wines and gourmet traditions, Dijon reveals the classic recipe for a perfect French escape
By Jacqueline Swartz
The French city of Dijon, only 90 minutes by train from Paris, is well known for its sumptuous culinary offerings. Mustard, wine, cassis, cheese and other local specialties offer gastronomic experiences at the highest level. Compared to Paris, the prices are moderate.
But I was not prepared for the city’s walkable open-air museum. As a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, the protected 97-hectare pedestrianized core of Dijon reflects centuries of wine and food culture and, urban history. Once the capital of the powerful Duchy of Burgundy, the city now displays an array of architectural styles. I saw buildings dating back as early as the 12th century, from medieval half-timbered home workshops that once housed humble artisans to Renaissance-style mansions for wealthy merchants.
History is never far from the table in Dijon. Food meets architecture at Les Halles, Dijon’s covered market. Architect Louis-Clément Weinberger designed the striking 19th-century iron structure using engineering techniques inspired by Dijon-born Gustave Eiffel. Beneath the soaring ironwork, vendors tempt shoppers with seasonal produce, Burgundy wines, Époisses and Brillat-Savarin cheeses, charcuterie and fresh-baked breads. It’s also an ideal lunch stop. Traditional dishes like boeuf bourguignon, prepared with Charolais beef and Burgundy wine, showcase the region’s culinary heritage.
Many of the historic buildings house cafés and shops. I was tempted by the shoe stores and the skin care products at the pharmacies, and, of course, the bakeries with their tempting, buttery croissants. One baked specialty is Gougères, airy cheese puffs made from choux pastry. The Mulot & Petitjean store sells locally made pain d’épices, gingerbread products that have been made in Dijon since 1796.
Mustard
Dijon may be synonymous with mustard, but locals explain that the name refers to a recipe, not a place of origin. Over 80 percent of the seeds still come from western Canada, and Dijon mustard can legally be made anywhere. To reclaim its Burgundy roots, Moutard de Bourgogne requires locally grown mustard seeds and Burgundy white wine. La Moutarderie Edmond Fallot proudly meets these standards. Its lively boutique draws mustard lovers to its tastings, showcasing inventive flavours like cassis and truffle. The mill stone recalls the craft’s heritage, while the tasting bar recreates the old market ritual of porcelain pumps dispensing mustard into customers’ jars.
Walking along Rue de la Liberté, I arrived at Place de la Liberation, where the grand semi-circular plaza frames the stunning Palais des Ducs et des États de Bourgogne—the former palace complex of the Dukes of Burgundy. The site reflects the grandeur of Burgundy’s dukes, whose influence stretched across Europe from the 12th to the 15th centuries. Under Philippe le Bon (Phillip the Good), who ruled from 1419 to 1467, the duchy expanded across the Low Countries, and Dijon flourished as a centre of art and diplomacy.
The Museum of Fine Arts, founded in 1787, is part of the palace, and its lavish rooms display European art from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. In the Salle des Gardes there’s a stunning sight—the opulent tombs of the Dukes. Adjacent to the museum, at 11 Rue des Forges, is the tourist office, a good source of information as well as clear, well-illustrated brochures.
Wine Tasting in Dijon and beyond
Dijon offers many opportunities to taste the wines that carry the renowned Burgundy name. Les Clos Vivants is a wine store where you can sample Burgundy wines as well as the local blackcurrant liqueur, crème de cassis. La Fine Heure offers tastings in its cave; it’s also a popular restaurant whose unpretentious décor and creative cuisine seems typical of Dijon.
Dijon is the gateway to Route des Grand Crus, a string of vineyards carrying legendary names like Gevrey-Chambertin and Nuits-Saint-Georges. On my half-day guided trip, I learned that what is important is not the grapes—mostly chardonnay and pinot noir—but the climats, which are carefully defined vineyard parcels producing distinctive wines.
In Dijon you can also taste wine at the multi-space modern International City of Gastronomy and Wine. This huge showcase of food and wine lies just outside the historic core. You’ll find wine tasting courses and interactive exhibits, among them “The gastronomic meal of the French.”
The name fits Dijon perfectly.
Travel Planner
For more Dijon travel information, visit en.destinationdijon.com
