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QUÉBEC
Slowing down in Bas-Saint-Laurent
A journey along the shores of the St. Lawrence
By Mark Stachiew
In French, the St. Lawrence River is known as the Fleuve Saint-Laurent. There’s no English equivalent, but the distinction is that a fleuve is a river that flows into the sea, and that subtle change between fresh and salt water is at the heart of what makes Québec’s Bas-Saint-Laurent so special.
I had driven through the region on my way to the Maritimes many times, always noting its beauty and vowing to return. Each time I marvelled at the way the far shore of the river disappeared beyond the hazy horizon, the tang of salt in the air, and increasing cries of seabirds. It always felt like the Maritimes had already begun, so why was I always in such a rush?
I was finally able to fully explore that transition from river to sea during a road trip along La Route des Navigateurs, a scenic drive following Route 132. This backroad hugs the southern shore of the St. Lawrence through Bas-Saint-Laurent and beyond. Here are some of the highlights from that unforgettable trip as my family and I drove from west to east through tidy Québecois villages and natural wonders.
Kamouraska: A Village from Another Time
I will forever associate one of the prettiest towns in Québec with Anne Hébert’s novel of the same name. While it’s not the 18th-century village from the book that I studied in high school French class, Kamouraska retains a timeless charm. Imagine yourself travelling back in time as you explore the streets of this relaxing riverside town. It boasts quaint shops, galleries and restaurants, but one of the best experiences is walking along the rocky shores of its public beach, where we savoured spectacular views of the river meeting the sky.
Rivière-du-Loup: Where River Meets Fleuve
Continuing eastward, we reached Rivière-du-Loup’s Parc de la Pointe just in time to watch the sun set in fiery hues over the St. Lawrence. The next morning, we explored the town’s history at the elegant Manoir Fraser, a 19th-century home that offered a glimpse into Québec’s seignorial era. Later, at Parc des Chutes, we were mesmerised by the cascading waterfalls tumbling over rugged rock for-mations on the town’s eponymous river as it flowed towards the St. Lawrence.
Parc National du Bic: Québec’s Natural Gem
Few provincial parks are as scenic and accessible as Parc National du Bic. There, conifer-lined cliffs plunge into the shim-mering St. Lawrence. We spent the day hiking along the shoreline, breathing in the fresh salt air, and exploring rocky coves, where it felt like we were the last people on Earth.
Rimouski: A City Shaped by the Sea
Our next stop, Rimouski, fully embraces its nautical heritage. At Pointe-au-Père Maritime Historic Site, we huffed and puffed our way up the stairs to the top of Pointe-au-Père Lighthouse, the second tallest in Canada, for sweeping views of the St. Lawrence. At the same site, we clambered through the narrow corridors of Onondaga, a decommissioned Canadian Cold War submarine. Across the street, we toured the Empress of Ireland Museum, where we were enthralled by the story of “Canada’s Titanic,” the greatest maritime tragedy in Canadian history, which took place just offshore from here in 1914.
Sainte-Luce: Last Stop Before the Sea
Our time in Bas-Saint-Laurent ended with a stop in the enchanting town of Sainte-Luce, where we ambled along the boardwalk that lines the long, sandy beach along Anse-aux-Coques. Dotted with colourful cottages and other families enjoying the gentle waves of the St. Lawrence, this area, sometimes known as Sainte-Luce-sur-Mer, seemed fitting as it was here that the slow transition from river to sea along the St. Lawrence was finally complete.
The next time I return to Bas-Saint-Laurent, I think I will explore the other road that I’ve rushed along on my way to the Maritimes, Route 289. It passes through the Témiscouata region along the Maine border on the way to New Brunswick and I’ve only caught a glimpse of the forests, fields and lakes rushing past my window along this scenic road. If I take the time to slow down, who knows what wonders I will discover?
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For more travel information about Bas-Saint-Laurent, visit quebecmaritime.ca/gotobsl
