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QUÉBEC
Where Québec Meets the Sea
Discovering the Magic of Gaspé
By Roger Rapoport
The seat belt sign illuminated as my Boeing 787 flight from Paris, flew over the Gaspé Peninsula. Our westbound jet to Montréal shook, rattled and rolled, giving my 300 fellow passengers a fleeting 15-minute aerial glimpse of this Gaspésie treasure.
From 10,700 metres, it’s hard to get a grasp of this region that has been considered to be the birthplace of French Canada where explorer Jacques Cartier first claimed the land for France in 1534.
As we flew over, I wanted to put in a call to the cartographer mapping the route on the seat video monitor. Obviously missing were the famous seabird rookery of Bonaventure Island, the photogenic Cap-des-Rosiers Lighthouse, and a string of river towns that rank among North America’s finest kayaking destinations.
Before we sped past this living time capsule of Canadian history, I was prepared to stand and declare, “Visiting Québec without seeing Gaspé is like touring the Louvre Museum and skipping the Mona Lisa.”
That thought lingered long after landing. As a new visitor to one of the most carbon-neutral places on the planet, my own journey continued by rail, tracing the coastline eastward aboard VIA Rail’s Ocean route. Stepping off at Rimouski station, often associated as the gateway to the Gaspésie Peninsula, you will wish you could have stayed longer.
I came to Gaspé in the footsteps of my parents, who spent a delayed honeymoon here two years after their 1938 wedding. Today, it remains a singular destination in a region entirely powered by renewable energy.
Getting Started
Begin your first morning in Rimouski at the beloved Les Baguettes en l’air. Stock up on artisanal breads and incomparable cinnamon rolls on your way to the fascinating trails of Bic National Park. From here continue onward to the not-to-be-missed Jardins de Métis, home to over 3,000 plant species, a state-of-the-art eco-house, and the International Garden Festival.
The Long Drive
Moseying along the unique maritime peninsula’s perimeter can easily take a week or longer. Take your time to visit classic seafood restaurants like Sainte Flavie’s Capitaine Homard where I swooned over Casserole de Fruits de Mer. Continuing east, you have your choice of three notable lighthouse tours, including Matane, Cap-Chat and Percé. Continue on to some of Gaspé’s most spectacular views at Forillon National Park. Be sure to detour into the high country along one of the river canyons popular for salmon fishing and winter sports. I found Highway 299 linking Sainte-Anne-des-Monts with Chaleur Bay to be a good gateway for photo ops at Gaspésie National Park.
From tourist cabins to bed and breakfasts like Auberge Sous les Arbres, Gaspé suits all price ranges. Choose between vetted off-the-beaten-track getaways, cabins and biopark options. Before making a restaurant reservation, you can visit Gaspésie Gourmande (gaspesiegourmande.com) to be sure the seafood at your table was caught or farmed locally. Museums
The maritime science centre, Exploramer in Sainte-Anne-des-Monts, gives you a chance to explore the region’s biodiversity via a St. Lawrence River research vessel. This is a perfect destination for families with children who will love the aquarium and hands-on exhibits. Further east, explore the Gaspé’s Musée de la Gaspésie and the Mi’kmaq (Micmac) Interpretation Site. In Gaspé, see the Jacques Cartier Cross monument (Berceau du Canada). The historic site is where Cartier “discovered” Canada for the French, and is the heart of the community’s old town.
Off The Beaten Track
Farming land and sea are central to the peninsula’s past and present. Diver Antoine Nicolas harvests coastal algae along the coast by hand. He offers a variety of products including seasonings and cosmetics at Gaspé’s Océan de Saveurs, Québec’s first certified organic seaweed producer. In Douglastown, Belgian immigrants Gérard Mathar and Catherine Jacob’s Gaspésie Sauvage is a step back in time to farming self-sufficiency. At their store you can sample some of their wild chanterelles, lobster mushrooms, teas, seeds and other fruits.
When To Go
Summer is peak season, and reservations are strongly recommended. Get an early start to beat traffic. Fall is an ideal time to visit. While Rimouski and Gaspé are year-round destinations, many smaller towns and historic sites are on hiatus. Late spring, i.e. May, can be a good choice for off-season travel. Plan your visit at Québec Maritime Gaspésie quebecmaritime.ca/en/discover-our-regions/gaspesie
