BRITISH COLUMBIA
A Snow-lover’s Smorgasbord
Adam Bisby expected to find world-class ski slopes in the Thompson-Okanagan. But his five-day visit reveals a part of central B.C. that’s all about defying expectations
By ADAM BISBY
On most clear winter evenings, anyone switching off their headlamp during Discover Sun Peaks Adventures’ guided “Snowshoe Fondue” tour sees a blanket of stars above and dark silhouettes below.
However, this is not most winter evenings. With a full moon joining the stars, the snow-clad Shuswap Highlands surrounding me are both remarkably illuminated and as beautiful as any forest I have ever seen. And then, what to my wondering eyes should appear, but an adorable wooden hut fronted by a roaring campfire, with several flasks of hot apple cider waiting within. Still to come were the best cheese and chocolate fondues I’ve ever tasted back at Fondue Stube in the incomparably picturesque alpine village of Sun Peaks Resort.
I expected to find world-class ski slopes in the Thompson-Okanagan. But the inaugural evening of my five-day visit makes it abundantly clear that the central B.C. region is all about defying expectations.
Sun Peaks: Snow Sports—and So Much More
After picking up high-performance rentals at Elevation Bike, Ski & Board, I can practically feel the adrenalin humming in my veins. I head straight for the slopes, eager to make my mark in the pristine snow. The newly unveiled West Bowl Express chairlift is more than just an upgrade—it’s a gateway to crisp mountain air, panoramic summit views, and sunshine that makes the rolling Bonaparte Plateau glisten like a sea of diamonds.
But Sun Peaks isn’t just for skiers. The following afternoon takes a playful turn at Cleavage Axe Co., where laughter echoes as I attempt to perfect my axe-throwing technique. The satisfying “thunk” of steel sinking into wood ignites my competitive fire, and each successful bullseye feels like a victory.
I proceed to swap my skis for a snowmobile and join a guided tour with Mountain Man Adventure Tours into the backcountry. The durable snowmobile crossover is a 2025 Ski-Doo Expedition Sport that roars as I weave through towering pines, each twist and turn unveiling snow-draped landscapes. Cresting a ridge, I pause to take it all in: the untouched beauty, the exhilarating freedom, the sheer joy of the ride. It feels like stepping into a cinematic adventure, equal parts “The Fast and the Fluffy” and winter wonder.
SilverStar: A Storybook Ski Setting
SilverStar’s ski offerings match Sun Peaks’ step for step. The sunny frontside welcomes me with gentle, sweeping runs, where I can carve effortlessly through velvety snow. But the real test of my skills awaits on the backside, where the terrain grows steeper, wilder—demanding precision, control, and a touch of daring. Each descent is a thrilling dance with gravity, my heart pounding as I weave through trees and tackle the kind of runs that leave my legs burning and my mouth grinning broadly.
The skiing is so sublime that I can’t bring myself to step away, not even for SilverStar’s other diversions. And there are plenty: A massive one-hectare natural ice rink nestled in the heart of the village, a four-lane tube park, 15 kilometres of fat bike trails winding through the snow-laden wilderness, and on it goes.
Meanwhile, the nearby Sovereign Lake Nordic Centre invites me to slow down and immerse myself in the hushed serenity of the subalpine world. As I glide along 100-plus kilometres of pristine trails, I notice the delicate imprints of animal tracks in the snow that surround towering evergreens heavy with fresh powder. This is more than a workout—it’s a soulful, meditative journey, a way to reconnect with the land while mitigating the indulgences of the past few days.
One evening, I board a tank-like snowcat for a dining experience like no other. The “Snow Cat Dinner” begins with a cosy ride through snow-laden trees, the thrumming of the machine’s engine breaking the silence of the wilderness. At our remote destination, a candlelit cabin-style restaurant, each course highlights the Okanagan’s seasonal bounty, from rich bisques to seared steak. The combination of fine dining, a warm hearth, and the solitude of the mountains makes it an unforgettable evening.
Kelowna: A Cultural and Culinary Capital
Reasoning that I would need to recharge and refuel after four days of winter adventure, I choose to end my journey in the Okanagan’s largest city. My first stop: the region’s largest winery, the Mission Hill Family Estate in West Kelowna. From the moment I arrive, I’m struck by its grandeur—towering stone archways, a soaring bell tower, and sweeping vineyard views that stretch toward Okanagan Lake. Inside, a cavernous barrel room is the epitome of quiet elegance, the scent of aging oak filling the air. A guided tasting of award-winning vintages, expertly paired with artisanal cheeses, provides a masterclass in the region’s winemaking excellence, each sip revealing layers of depth and complexity.
As the sun dips below the horizon, I head for Prospera Place arena, where the Kelowna Rockets face off against the Seattle Thunderbirds. The energy is electric as the Rockets fight their way back from a 2-0 deficit to force overtime, the entire arena holding its breath with every breakaway and near miss. In the end, victory slips just out of reach, but again my expectations are fulfilled—and then some.
Overnights and Dining
- Sun Peaks Grand Hotel & Conference Centre: Located in the heart of the village, the hotel blends cosy and comfortable rooms with luxury amenities such as a heated outdoor pool and trio of steaming hot tubs.
- Snowbird Lodge, SilverStar: Convenient ski-in/ski-out digs that maximize slope time.
- Black Pine Restaurant, SilverStar: Specializing in Japanese-inspired dishes, this cosy spot serves a delicate miso ramen alongside perfectly crisp tempura.
- Long John’s Pub, SilverStar: Casual après-ski vibes alongside elevated pub fare and cold local brews.
- Lakehouse Kitchens Cooking School, Kelowna: Charismatic chef Travis Pye leads groups through three-course lessons. Mine included a silky potato-leek soup, seared pork tenderloin nestled atop a bed of wild mushroom risotto, and a light and zesty citrus olive oil cake.
Did You Know?
Since the Okanagan Valley’s first winery, Calona Vineyards, opened in 1932, the region has grown to encompass more than 200 licensed wineries and about 4,450 hectares of vines. This makes it Canada’s second-largest wine-growing region by production volume after Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula.
Travel Planner
For more travel information on the Thompson-Okanagan contact the Thompson Okanagan Tourism Association thompsonokanagan.com