JAPAN
Tokyo’s New and Emerging Culinary Ecosystems
A diverse palate of neighbourhoods
from new locales to off the beaten path
By Adam Waxman
Kuchisabishii is a Japanese phrase one utters when their mouth is lonely and bored; craving something new and exciting. You will not hear this phrase uttered in Tokyo where, it seems, almost every floor of every building on every corner offers eye-popping delights that will make your taste buds do judo flips.
Tokyo is electric—a cosmic flywheel of innovation spinning at high velocity. It reinvents itself neighbourhood by neighbourhood. Overnight, intersections of cuisine and design transform traditional enclaves into bohemian hubs where Tokyo’s young and hip can bask in a microcosm of Japanese trends that pique curiosities and seduce palates.
From convenience stores to food gardens, and izakayas to the constellation of Michelin-starred restaurants, Tokyo is a gastronome’s paradise. Even train stations brim with boulangeries exhaling buttered air and confectioneries with storybook-perfect fruit.
Department stores like Ginza Mitsukoshi or Shibuya Tokyu Foodshow resemble snack-themed amusement parks. Here, you’ll find sushi so plump it could burst, designer tea beside edible art chocolates, unctuous wagyu beef and crackling chicken karaage, piquant barbequed squid crêpes and savoury seafood okonomiyaki, all waft their smoky plumes of temptation. These snack parks will send you into delirium as they bounce like pachinko balls through a cosmic maze of gastronomy.
A few stops away from Shibuya, Shimo-Kitazawa Station is your portal to Tokyo’s “Curry District.” Quirky cafés punctuate a burgeoning arts scene. Locals come here to unwind with a glass of wine or a refreshing beer, which they pair with the neighbourhood’s fabled dish. Think you know curry? There are more than 100 curry restaurants that simmer their signature recipes there. From European and Indian to homegrown Japanese styles, this spicy smorgasbord celebrates the city’s obsession with depth and umami. October’s Curry Festival lasting several weeks lets visitors curate their own spice adventures, armed with a curry map and plenty of appetite.
When Tokyoites need a breather, they head to nature. The mountains of Okutama are just two hours away, offering forest therapy, river hikes, and wasabi farming. You’ll never go back to green horseradish paste after tasting freshly grated wasabi root—its sweetness and warmth are almost spiritual. Visitors can join harvesting tours and learn about the root’s cultural and environmental significance.
Okutama’s cuisine mirrors its landscape, too—robust, wild and grounded in tradition. In this area, the local specialties at restaurants can include grilled venison and onions, miso-broth boar stew with tofu and shirataki noodles, and green tea soba with chestnuts. Wake to pristine rivers and breakfasts of grilled salmon, yuzu yoghurt, chestnut rice, and silky Japanese eggs.
Head southeast to the Izu Islands, and the scene shifts again. Here, the cognoscenti surf, soak in the seaside onsen, and sample sashimi and unique island-distilled shochu.
Hachijojima Island is a sub-tropical wonder; a relatively untouched beach paradise of seaside hot springs and water sports. The distinct food culture here is based on the rich aquatic life and local traditions. Sushi is composed of fish marinated in soy sauce served over rice mixed with slightly sweet rice vinegar. Instead of wasabi, they use a dab of hot mustard. The result is an unctuous parcel of beautifully textured sushi, totally unique to this island.
Tokyo is bursting with such a rich range of high-stimulus settings and experiences to accompany its diverse gastronomy, from boho eats to neon streets and idyllic oases. The ingredients for this dynamic taste of place are sourced from ancient traditions and reimagined into eclectic new directions, ever-evolving to excite your palate and your imagination. What are you waiting for?
Fun Fact
Sumo originates from the Japanese word sumafu meaning “to fight” and “to resist.” Deeply rooted in tradition and religion, there are strict rules around eating. Top-division Japanese Sumo wrestlers are not allowed to eat breakfast, but enjoy a traditional lunch of chankonabe after training. This simmering stew of fish, chicken, meatballs and vegetables, all cooked at the table in a richly flavoured broth, is nutritious and hearty and can be enjoyed at restaurants in the Ryogoku District of Tokyo. Some of these Chanko restaurants even offer sumo experiences like meeting and interacting with former sumo wrestlers, and even challenging one in the ring!
Travel Planner
For more travel information about Tokyo and its surrounding regions,
visit tokyotokyo.jp and gotokyo.org