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Dreamscapes Magazine

BRITISH COLUMBIA

Beyond the Vines and Views

On the eve of UNESCO eyeing the prized foodie haven of Kelowna, a nominee for the nation’s first UNESCO City of Gastronomy,
Ilona Kauremszky set out to uncover what makes this lakefront playground a culinary contender

With teasing views of Okanagan Lake’s deep dark expanse, cycling up the curly spiral trails of Knox Mountain is bound to give swoon-worthy views, the kind that make you work up an appetite after your cardio workout.

But, instead, I was pushing up the inclines this summer in a ride so easy breezy that I wanted to bring this bike home. It’s the Rize, a Vancouver-made e-bike so smooth my guide reminded me to push the throttle.

Who needs to pedal? Only someone who has been on a foodie mission over four days, that’s who!

Once pegged as an outdoor escape for Vancouverites and Albertans, the popular four-season destination that yields stunning landscapes, passionate producers, and a

distinctly local vibe is primed for its gastro-nomic close-up. Kelowna was invited by UNESCO to become a “City of Gastronomy,” where the ranking would mean joining a global network of cities like Parma, Italy, and becoming Canada’s first to receive such a designation.

Funny coincidence: my guide Alessandro Papa, an e-bike tour guide from Lakeside Eco-Sports, hails from there. He didn’t seem to miss Italian fare as he rhymed off what he considers Kelowna’s best pizza spots.

I should know. I ate at one of them.

Kelowna, for many might not be on the epicurean radar, because it’s big on wineries and orchard farms. So, when a press release announcing the UNESCO bid hit my inbox this past spring, I was intrigued. I had to go. Thankfully, Porter Airlines offers a new non-stop Kelowna-bound flight in under five hours, and before you could say “Bon Appetit” I was there.

This foodie detective started her quest at the Sncewips Heritage Museum, and was met by museum docent, Coralee Miller. Indigenous foodways and flora on display, Coralee revealed in Syilx Okanagan culture Four Food Chiefs: skəmxist (Bear), n’tyxtix (Salmon), spitlem (Bitterroot) and siyaʔ (Saskatoon) are an integral story of the Syilx Okanagan people. “They each agreed to give up a piece of themselves so that humans would live,” she explained about this millennia-old belief.

By Paynter’s Fruit Market in West Kelowna, I uncovered another tradition. The 16-hectare family farm could be Paynterville as each hilltop house in this microclimate ridge overlooking orchards and crops belongs to a Paynter family member. A prehistoric glacier bed of deep clay alongside a gurgling stream of mountain water once fed the earth for a farmer named Edwin Paynter. In 1919, the English farmer settled and toiled this land.

“We grow over 100 crops, especially the ground ones,” grinned staff Caitie Bannow as she led me on a guided farm tour open to the public.

And there in a dust storm, atop her shiny red tractor, emerged Jennay Oliver, a fourth generation Paynter farmer. She was rotary tilling fields all morning. “If you arrived later, my zucchini blossoms could have gone with you,” she laughed. The delicate flowers were headed to Old Vines Restaurant at Quails’ Gate, harmoniously dovetailing into my lunch stop.

Old Vines Restaurant sources locally. So local, the farm origin is indicated on the artisan cheeses at this acclaimed winery restaurant that celebrated the induction of Executive Chef Roger Sleiman into the BC Restaurant Hall of Fame earlier this year. A fixture in these parts, Chef Sleiman has curated seasonal bounty for 19 of the restaurant’s 25 years in operation. Joanna Schlosser, marketing director at Quails’ Gate, is celebrating the winery restaurant’s 25th year with a fall online order of vineyard honey, in-house made quince paste, and Fortified Vintage Foche port-soaked cherries—only my favourite Okanagan fruits! “UNESCO or not,” she opines, “we know what we have.”

Next morning we feasted on scrambled eggs atop peanut butter on toast—a besotted morning staple at Sunny’s Modern Diner where the Kelowna culinary spirits came alive! The popular downtown diner with a female-led kitchen is the turf of Chef Rod Butters. “Really, two places lured me—Mission Hill and Quails’ Gate,” the maestro chef who launched the Wickaninnish Inn’s Pointe Restaurant in Tofino, B.C., recalled of the city’s early restaurant days.

When Butters arrived 25 years ago, good dining was scant. Tumbleweed rolled down Bernard Avenue where Sunny’s now resides. Since then, over 400 restaurants are on the city’s playbill, and in summer, Bernard Avenue turns into a pedestrian-friendly food zone called, “Meet Me on Bernard.”

The popular downtown initiative touts bustling patios, booming restaurants, and as Cassandra Wysochanskyj, spokesperson for Meet Me on Bernard, reasons, Kelowna is up for UNESCO status. “We are about community and this UNESCO status will just amplify all the amazing things that are happening,” she said. For a population of nearly 166,000 residents, which insiders say is one of the country’s fastest growing cities, that’s plates galore!

To delve deeper, I joined Andrew Deans, owner and operator of “A Taste of Kelowna Food Tours,” who promised to show me only unique eateries. We met at the historic Laurel Packinghouse, one of Kelowna’s fruit packing remnants, which houses a museum and was the start of our seven-course star-studded eat-and-drink adventure. We riffed with restaurant staff, snacked on samples, and took a lakefront “pit stop” for ice cream to prep for more stops. The hefty players on my culinary playlist: Sprout for the best avocado on toast; burgers and beer at BNA; pizza at Curious Cafe; Mexican tacos at El Taquero; and for a ’70s throwback, let’s get funky at Skinny Duke’s Glorious Emporium. In between dim sum shareables and a refreshing cucumber cocktail (cukes in liquor aren’t my first go-to, but in Boba Fett it works!), served by a Geraldo Rivera stand-in, this panelled rec room-inspired pub is worth a drop in.

One of my memorable meals playing foodie detective took place after my e-bike tour. Hot, hungry and thirsty, we headed to Kettle River Brewing Company in the north end. Home of Chef Brock Bowes (Food Network Canada’s Top Chef, Chopped champion, and People’s Choice Gold Medal Winner of Kelowna Now’s Best Of), the scene at this neighbourhood microbrewery (Kelowna’s first) is best described as “chilled” like the rest of Kelowna.

We bellied up at a booth and met wife and co-owner Courtney Koga. “Any recommendations?” I asked, sharing that I’m no picky eater.

Sandwiched between summer camp kitsch decor with shades of B-movie props, a flight of mini-pints appeared on a handcrafted wood fish head-to-tail paddle, followed by the snacks. Elk carpaccio with pickled rhubarb and a super spicy sausage corn dog wrapped in bacon. And then, Chef Brock arrived. No fuss, no nonsense—the pub fare is simple, yet complex. “I don’t like all the chi-chi that star-rated restaurants represent,” he admitted, sharing the nasturtium flower on my napkin ring was plucked that morning from his happy place, the backyard garden.

For me, caring for the land (tmxʷulaxʷ) and for the people (tmixʷ) is Kelowna’s culinary backbone. UNESCO designation or not, Kelowna is ripe with culinary wonders.

SLEEPS

The Outside Inn

Tucked above the vines, overnight in a design-forward modular cabin at this family-owned winery, Niche Wine Co., in West Kelowna. Scandi-cool, find light wood ceilings, an airy ensuite, and a plush king-sized bed with valley views. Spin vintage vinyl, open a Niche Wine bottle from your fully stocked fridge, and head to your private fire pit for celestial gazing. nichewinecompany.com/stay

Delta Hotels Grand Okanagan Resort

A resort within the city, this favourite playground of fun offers ample activities for all ages. Go for boardwalk strolls, hit the pool, try boating, and enjoy dining at OAK + CRU. marriott.com/en-us/hotels/ylwok-delta-hotels-grand-okanagan-resort

Travel Planner

For travel information about Kelowna, visit tourismkelowna.com. Porter Airlines flies to Kelowna from Montréal, St. John’s, Halifax, and Ottawa with connecting service through Toronto. Porter has a new year-round direct service to Kelowna from Toronto five times per week. For air reservations, see flyporter.com

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