Page 65 - DreamScapes Magazine | Winter 2024/2025

Three generations
explore the spirit
of travel
and a slice of
paradise in
French Polynesia
BY ROBIN ESROCK
PHOTOS: WINDSTAR CRUISES | ROBIN ESROCK
Covered head to toe in striking tattoos, a local storyteller named Tihoti
explains the rationale for his extensive body art. “Before writing, before
books and screens, this is how knowledge was passed from the genera-
tions.” Along with dancing, singing and drumming, his people used their bodies
to educate and inspire new generations for the adventures ahead. On-board a
small ship cruising between the lush islands of French Polynesia, I’m learning
that travel is another important medium to transfer knowledge between genera-
tions. I see it flowing in real time between my elated mother and daughter, as we
explore a paradise we’d only seen in calendar pages.
We’re three generations on a week-long itinerary aboard Windstar Cruises’
Wind Spirit, a small sail ship that turns heads in any bay it happens to drop anchor.
Her four striking masts recall a different era, and with a maximum capacity for
148 passengers and 100 cabin crew, the Wind Spirit can visit spots larger cruise
ships simply cannot access. Sunset sails to the booming soundtrack of Vangelis
leave an indelible impression on passengers from their 80s to my 10-year-old
daughter Raquel. She’s the only child on-board, adopted and adored by doting
passengers and the international crew. Cheryl, my mother, is glowing like the
proud grandma she is, and she’s not alone.
THE PLAN
There are other multi-generational families on-board too. A veteran Windstar guest
from California has brought along her middle-aged son and 21-year-old grand-
daughter. Both tell me they were initially skeptical of cruises, but Granny knows full
well this is a special boat in a very special part of the world. We’ll be calling into
Papeete, Mo’orea, Raiatea, Taha’a, Bora Bora and Huahine, stacking the week with
island culture, aquatic adventure, and 360-degree views of tropical wonder.
On the north coast of Mo’orea, we anchor in Cook’s Bay surrounded by an
amphitheatre of mountains so striking they appear photoshopped against the
bright South Pacific sky. Larger ships cannot access this shallow bay, so it is ours
to enjoy. Although various shore excursions are offered, my family is content to
soak up the water toys offloaded from the back of the Wind Spirit. Kayaks, stand-
up paddleboards, floating mats to relax in the silky warm sea water; there’s even
a water trampoline. I’d never seen my mom in a kayak before, much less my
daughter scooting about on a stand-up paddleboard.
LEARNING ADVENTURES
I’ve taken Raquel to 10 countries on four continents, figuring one of the best
values I can instill in her is an insatiable curiosity to interact with our planet’s
people, creatures and ecosystems.
On the island of Raiatea, we visit the Anapa Pearl Farm, consisting of an over-
water hut standing above a hectare of clear blue water. Over 70,000 black-lipped
oysters live on a grid of thick ropes across this fetching lagoon. Without doubt,
few of her classmates will be able to describe the history, craft and unusual prac-
tice of harvesting black pearls in the South Pacific.
Watching a pearl farmer delicately use a tool to remove a shiny black pearl from
an oyster’s mouth, I see this curiosity burning in her eyes, and in my mother’s
eyes too. Only then do I realize where I get it from myself.
HANDY CRUISE TIPS
• Windstar offers 7- to 14-day itineraries in
French Polynesia, offering various cruise and
all-inclusive packages.
• The cruise line provides complementary
flippers and traditional masks. If you’re new
to snorkelling, bring your own full-face mask.
• Windstar has a plant-based menu across
their fleet, providing excellent options for
vegans and vegetarians.
WINTER 2024/2025 DREAMSCAPES 65