Page 73 - Dreamscapes Magazine | Spring/Summer 2025

A catamaran ride across Tres Chimbadas Oxbow
Lake reveals a family of giant river otters, curious
capuchins and a lurking black caiman. I’m in my glory
as hoatzins, kingfishers, herons, egrets and macaws
abound non-stop. Guide Fernando Coa, an Ese Eja
wildlife guide since 2006, points out the peculiar
horned screamer, and an emerald boa camouflaged
appearing like a banana bunch.
Ese Eja Cultural Learnings
Seeing the jungle through an elder’s eyes offers an inti-
mate glimpse into Ese Eja traditions. A medicinal walk
with Pesha reveals the jungle as a living pharmacy. We
pause to learn about una de gato (cat’s claw), used for
ulcers, and chuchuhuasi, a remedy for arthritis. Highly
sensory, we taste and touch these wild greens that leave
my tongue numb and fingers dyed purple.
Becoming a Citizen Scientist
A visit to sister lodge Refugio Amazonas introduces me
to the Discovering New Species Program. Donning
wellies and a headlamp, biologist Aracely Yarasca navi-
gates us into the dark forest to capture and identify
new tiger moth species. Of all life forms on Earth,
insects remain the least understood.
Arriving at an illuminated white sheet covered in
insects, it takes a minute to acclimate but soon I’m
appreciating the intricate designs of moth wings.
Gently, I pluck around 10 tiger moths marking my first
official contribution to science. Once collected, the
moths are shipped for genetic sequencing and cata-
loguing. This initiative has already discovered over 30
species, with participants earning the naming rights
for their finds.
As the boat returns to Puerto Maldonado, I carry
more than just memories—I leave with a renewed
respect for the Ese Eja and those dedicated to pro-
tecting the Amazon, and a commitment to travelling
with intention.
DS
TRAVEL PLANNER
Visit rainforestexpeditions.com
JENN SMITH NELSON
NEED
TO KNOW
Visiting the Peruvian Amazon
and the Ese Eja Community
> LOCATION: Tambopata, Madre de Dios, Peru.
> SIZE: Covers 60%+ of Peru’s territory.
> TIP: Schedule early flights into Puerto
Maldonado (via Lima or Cusco).
> TRANSFERS: Rainforest Expeditions provides
guided boat transfers along the Tambopata River.
The Ese Eja Native Community of Infierno has
around 1,000 people.
> GUIDES: All guides are English-speaking Ese
Eja members.