Page 61 - DreamScapes Magazine | Spring/Summer 2023

PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK/VALDIS SKUDRE | SHUTTERSTOCK/NICKTURNERPHOTO | SHUTTERSTOCK/SIMON CHARLES A JOHNSON | SHUTTERSTOCK/DAVID HUGHES
Chipping Campden—home to honey-coloured limestone buildings, glorious gardens and the Arts and Crafts move- ment—south to beautiful Bath.
FOLLOW THE WARDEN
I arrived in Stow-on-the-Wold by taxi, the quickest way to get around as buses are infrequent, to meet Ian Macpherson. Clad in a yellow high-vis vest, hat, backpack and walking stick, the tall Brit introduced himself as a Cotswold Warden, one of many volunteers who lead free guided walks. Before each walk the Warden informs his charges they’ll need to bring snacks, water and TP if the day’s route doesn’t pass through a village.
We set out on a three-hour hike through leafy paths and rolling hills. At the entrance to Broadwell Church, the his- tory buff showed me a faint circle with a dent in the centre used as an ancient sundial. By inserting a stick in the middle and watching where the shadow fell, a parishioner could tell what time the priest would hold mass. In the churchyard, shaded by a giant yew tree, he pointed out cylindrical bale tombs carved for rich wool merchants.
As we approached a farm in Donnington, Macpherson began opening and closing gates to keep the animals in. After fiddling with latches on my own for several days I was thrilled to have a guide who understood how they worked, who knew the area well and could confidently lead the way. I felt like I’d been found at last. DS
TRAVEL PLANNER
For trip planning in the Cotswolds, see VisitBritain.com, Cotswolds.com, and for walking and exploring visit Cotswoldsaonb.org.uk
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TEA TIME AT HUFFKINS
For the ultimate post-walk reward, order the Cotswolds Cream Tea at Huffkins in Stow. The bright, airy tearoom has baked for British royalty since 1890. Wheat for the flour is grown and milled by a fifth-generation miller in Skipton under Wychwood, while milk, butter and Billy’s eggs are all sourced locally. After admiring the warm, generous scone, puffed on the sides with a top of burnished gold, I smeared the Tiptree strawberry preserves on one half, as instructed, followed by a spoonful of Rodda’s clotted cream. It paired perfectly with the bakery’s house blend: Margaret’s Hope Darjeeling tea blended with Orangajuli Assam.
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