Page 72 - DreamScapes Magazine | Fall/Winter 2025

The Thompson, the Fraser’s largest tribu-
tary, is also the lifeblood of Kumsheen’s
rafting adventures. Thanks to founder Bernie
Fandrich, this stretch has become legendary.
Big rapids like the Frog and Mother-in-law
offer a thrill—but we’d come for the stories.
Kumsheen’s rafting trips are a crash course in
geology and cultural history, a fast-paced ride
through terrain shaped by water, time, and
the people who’ve called this canyon home
since time immemorial. Our half-day trip
was the perfect introduction to the land-
scapes ahead.
TIME TRAVEL AT HISTORIC HAT CREEK
North of Lytton, sagebrush and golden hills
announce BC’s semi-arid interior. Our next
stop was Historic Hat Creek Ranch, a living
history site along the original Cariboo Wagon
Road, operated by the St’uxwtews Pesuten
Heritage Society.
Before checking in, we visited the nearby
McAbee Fossil Fields, a rich site with fossils
dating back 52 million years. Also operated
by the St’uxwtews Pesuten Heritage Society,
the area features trails and interpretive sig-
nage. Guide Adrian Lewis walked us through
native plants and their traditional uses, then
pointed us toward one of his favourite hikes,
with views across the hoodoo-studded hills
and Thompson River. It was a fascinating
glimpse into the balance between tourism,
science, and Indigenous stewardship.
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DREAMSCAPES FALL/WINTER 2025
Arriving at Hat Creek Ranch, we parked
beside rustic barns and grassy fields, then
wandered the property. One perk of camping
overnight: after-hours access. Original road-
house buildings, Indigenous interpretation
sites, and stagecoach rides brought the Gold
Rush era to life, while curious marmots kept
us entertained.
CULTURE AND CONNECTION
The next morning, we lingered over coffee
before taking in the ranch’s Indigenous
interpretation areas, to learn more about
the Stuctwesemc people. From the recon-
structed pit house to traditional food prep
zones, these spaces ground the site in a
deeper reality: before it was a roadhouse, it
was a home.
In the afternoon, we rejoined the Fraser
and drove to Xwísten Experience Tours near
Lillooet. Our guide, Joshua Jack, led us out
onto the rocks of the Bridge River Fishing
Grounds, one of North America’s oldest
continually used fishing sites. He shared
how salmon continue to nourish his com-
munity—not just physically, but spiritually
and culturally.
We then ventured deeper into the land-
scape to an active archaeological site
containing over 80 identified pit houses
(s7ístken)—the traditional winter homes of
the St’át’imc people. Wandering through the
circular depressions, Jack’s awe was conta-
gious. Before the Gold Rush, some 2,000–
3,000 of his ancestors had lived in this one
village. Excavations on just one of the
homes—wrapped up last year—revealed it
had been continuously rebuilt and reoccu-
pied some 18 times over at least 2,000 years.
MOUNTAIN MAGIC
Leaving the dry plateau and re-entering the
Coast Mountains comes with a dramatic
shift. The road climbs and twists past steep
drop-offs and forested ridges as it follows
Cayoosh Creek. That night, we stayed at
Riverside Resort in Whistler—an RV-
friendly campground that feels like a
mountain hideaway, with wooded sites and
trails at the doorstep.
But before settling in, we stopped in
Whistler Village to visit the Squamish Lil’wat
Cultural Centre. The architecture alone is
worth the visit—a soaring, light-filled
building that blends Indigenous design with
contemporary flair. Inside, exhibits and
guided tours offer a powerful introduction to
the Lil’wat and Squamish Nations’ traditions
and artistry. After four days of history and
nature, the centre helped bring it all
together—showing that culture isn’t just pre-
served; it’s evolving.
We capped off our final morning with a
soak at the nearby Scandinave Spa—a
soothing treat before making the journey
back to Vancouver, refreshed. DS