Page 66 - DreamScapes Magazine | Fall/Winter 2025

TA B L E TA L K
Chef
Zach
Keeshig is Modernizing Indigenous Cuisine
N O S U R P R I S E T H AT N A A G A N I N
Owen Sound was recently named No. 9 “Best
New Restaurant” by Canada’s 100 Best Restau-
rants. It’s all in a day’s work for Chef Zach
Keeshig, whose 12-course tasting menu brings
together Indigenous traditions, foraged ingredi-
ents, and fine-dining finesse in a space that
feels like home.
The narrow, timber-clad dining room is
reminiscent of a cosy woodland cabin. Each
table is handcrafted and wood-burned with
illustrations of foraged ingredients. Shelves
brim with stacked preserves, books, and bun-
dles of drying herbs—token reminders of the
simpler days.
But don’t be fooled by the rustic aesthetic.
NAAGAN’s tasting menu is a daily perfor-
mance of culinary storytelling. While the
structure remains—bread, meat, seafood,
poultry—each dish changes based on what’s
available and in season.
THE CHEF, THE ARTIST,
THE STORYTELLER
“I’ve been cooking for over half of my life,”
says Chef Zach Keeshig, an Indigenous chef
with Ojibwa roots from the Neyaashiinig-
miing (Cape Croker) First Nation. His
PRO TIP
NAAGAN sometimes hosts forest walk-
and-dine experiences—meals served in
the wild after foraging lessons.
résumé includes time at culinary power-
houses like Langdon Hall, Eigensinn Farm
and Restaurant Pearl Morissette.
“At first, I thought I’d modernize my
grandmother’s and aunt’s recipes,” he says.
“But there were no written recipes. It was all
passed-down knowledge.”
Armed with his culinary curiosity, when
Chef Keeshig returned home to Owen Sound
an idea was sparked—create a modern dining
experience rooted in Indigenous ingredients
and MICHELIN-rated techniques.
A FUNDAMENTALLY
SUSTAINABLE KITCHEN
NAAGAN sources almost everything locally—
right down to the ducks, geese and deer,
hunted by Treyton Jones from the Chippewas
of Nawash Unceded First Nation. Pork and
chicken? Off the menu. Instead, expect wild
game, lake fish, and other staples long
66
DREAMSCAPES FALL/WINTER 2025
These curated dishes
are culinary stories
of the maker,
a community and
our environment
WORDS AND PHOTOS BY KATERYNA TOPOL
embraced by Indigenous communities. The
crayfish, for instance, had to go through formal
food safety approval before hitting the plate.
Citrus, black pepper and vanilla are also
out. In their place: native herbs like sweet-
grass, lemon verbena, and cedar—gathered
respectfully from the local garden and sur-
rounding forests. “I didn’t want to say I was
doing Indigenous food and not live the life.”
A BUSINESS WITH COMMUNITY
AT THE CORE
Community is at the core of NAAGAN. The fish
is caught by Robichaud Commercial Fishing;
the ceramics are handmade by local artists like
Jon O’Leary and Amanda Miller. “I wanted to
introduce more Indigenous businesses into
my restaurant,” he explains. The name itself—
Naagan—means “dish” in Ojibwa.
“Of course I want NAAGAN on the map,”
he adds, “but I also want Indigenous food to
be part of the conversation. It belongs in the
same sentence as Italian or Chinese.”
DS
TRAVEL PLANNER
To make reservations or subscribe to
NAAGAN’s newsletter, visit naagan.ca, and
follow @chefzachkeeshig